
i am absolutely blazing through my sample backlog! now including my ratings for the scent (though many of them lose overall points for poor sillage/longevity).
By Kilian, After Sunset: Fresh not-quite-sweet green, juicy in a clean way. Becomes a bit marine after a while (this is a good thing). 3.5/5 (I also tried Rolling in Love, which is apparently the tiktok favorite from this maker, but it was way too gourmand for me and the promised tuberose was simply not there, 2/5, why are all the tiktok girlies obsesssed with smelling like dessert)
Histoires de Parfums, Tubereuse 1 La Capriceuse: A heavy blast of suede with a marzipan note underneath. A lot of the reviews mention a balloon smell and that comes through pretty soon; absolutely zero tuberose. I forgot to check on how this developed so I need to retry it. 2.5/5 for the initial scent but could be fun to layer.
Acqua di Parma, Blu Mediterraneo - Fico di Amalfi: This had a nice greenness and a hint of fruitiness, but in a gently creamy way that I haven't encountered before. I have now purchased a five scent fig sampler to compare it with. 4/5
Valentino, Voce Viva. A nice but generic fruity sweet scent with vanilla notes, but notable for being one of the few vanillas I've tried that doesn't turn sour on me. 3/5
Sucreabeille, Goth as Fuck: a gently spicy incense, somewhat high-pitched (this is also a good thing, in this case at least). 4/5
Naomi Goodsir, Nuit de Bakelite: This starts out fascinating and wonderful--a slightly pungent, slightly smoky green that dries to a lively woodsy green. Unfortunately, while it lasts a while, it fades to a mostly generic pleasant masculine scent. Initial scent gets 4/5
Clean, Reserve Skin: I have no idea how this could ever be a "skin but better" scent unless my chemistry is just bonkers, because on me it smells like a sickly sweet child's dessert. I broke out the alcohol wipes to take this one off. 1/5
Clean, Reserve Rain: Now THIS is a your-skin-but-better scent (light watery floral and light cucumber). Unfortunately it's not strong enough for me to smell it on myself, and at the moment the only person getting close enough to smell it on me is strongly opposed to all perfume. I want this to be my signature scent but I do not have the disposable income to be buying a perfume that no one gets to smell, not to mention it fades away fast. 4/5 for the scent alone, if I ever start getting regularly intimate with someone who likes perfume I might grab a bottle
Giorgio Armani, Si EDP: Starts off smelling like Lambrusco and almost alcoholic (in a beverage way, not the alcohol base), then the cassis REALLY takes over to the point where it's almost medicinal. Eventually fades a little into a gentler fruitiness and then a pleasant but hard to describe skin scent. This is interesting the whole time and never bad, but not actually good for the first hour. 3/5
Ermenegildo Zegna, Uomo: This has an absolutely fascinating evolution! First citrus, then strongly and pleasantly woody in the opening. An hour later it's moved on to a friendly light woodiness with just a hint of green, and continues to evolve as it fades. 4/5 for the whole cycle
BPAL, Brown Jenkin: I love this one at every stage even though it changes wildly. At first you get a slightly high-pitched sandalwood and then what I think is the orris root--something sharp that borders on an unpleasant candied note but lands on "actually very good." After an hour it starts to smell exactly like the discontinued Lush scent Snowcake (a well-rounded, not too sugary marzipan), which I mourn for every single day, and after that a growing hint of leather creeps in. 4.5/5, definitely going to get a 5 mL of this.
Hermes, Hermessence Muguet Porcelain: MAGICAL. An overwhelmingly lovely wet lily with a polite but present green note that dries down to something mostly the same but also almost unctuous, and after a while some woody notes emerge. In the second hour it becomes what I can only describe as "shrubbier" and "shaggier." This only lasted two hours on me but I bought a larger decant anyway because I simply cannot be without it, it's up there with vintage Fracas as simply the best things I have ever smelled. 5/5